Brushing / Raising / Napping
Lifts the surface fibres into a soft, fluffy pile. Knitwear usually calls it brushing; the exact term depends on the equipment and effect.
- Also called
- 起毛／拉毛
- 起毛加工／ブラッシング加工
Knitwear finishing, washing and embellishment
Beyond computerized knitting, SANTEXWELL can apply 22 finishing and embellishment techniques to knitwear. They cover surface finishes (brushing, shearing, sueding), wool milling, enzyme and stone washes, distressing and enzymatic discharge printing. They also include hand crochet and hand knitting; hand, computerized, chain-stitch, chenille and cord embroidery; and beading, sequins, appliqué and needle felting.
Each technique changes hand feel, appearance, cost and timing. The names below are given in English, Chinese and Japanese so your team, our team and your suppliers mean the same finish.
Surface finishing
Finishes that change the surface fibres and therefore the first touch.
Shearing
Trims the surface pile to an even length for a uniform finish.
- Also called
- 剪毛／修毛
- シャーリング加工／剪毛加工
Sueding / Peaching
Light abrasion raises a fine, short nap, a different result from the longer pile of brushing.
- Also called
- 磨毛／桃皮绒整理
- スエード加工／ピーチ加工
Milling
Felting wool fibres to shrink, densify and change the hand feel of the knit.
Milling / Fulling
Felts the wool fibres so the knit shrinks, becomes denser and changes in hand feel.
- Also called
- 缩绒
- 縮絨加工（しゅくじゅう）
Heavy milling / Heavy fulling
A stronger milling that gives a tighter, thicker, felted texture.
- Also called
- 强缩绒／重缩绒
- 強縮絨加工／強縮加工
Washing, wash-down and print effects
Garment washes and treatments for a softer, worn-in or patterned look.
Enzyme washing
Enzymes treat the fibre surface to adjust fuzz, hand feel or a washed-down look.
- Also called
- 酵素水洗／酶洗
- 酵素洗い／バイオウォッシュ
Stone washing
Stones rub against the garments to create a worn look and colour variation.
- Also called
- 石磨水洗／石洗
- ストーンウォッシュ
Enzyme stone washing / Bio-stone washing
Combines stone washing with an enzyme treatment.
- Also called
- 石磨酵素水洗
- バイオストーンウォッシュ
Distressing / Distressed finishing
Deliberately creates wear, holes and frayed edges.
- Also called
- 做旧／破坏加工
- ダメージ加工／ユーズド加工
Enzymatic discharge printing
Enzymes remove dye in selected areas to form a pattern.
- Also called
- 酵素拔染印花／酶法拔印
- 酵素を用いた抜染プリント
Handwork
Pieces, panels and trims made by hand rather than on a knitting machine.
Hand crochet / Hand crocheting
Whole garments, motifs, necklines or decorative edges crocheted by hand.
- Also called
- 手钩／手工钩针编织
- 手かぎ針編み／かぎ針による手編み
Hand knitting
Knitted by hand on needles; a separate technique from hand crochet.
- Also called
- 手工棒针编织
- 棒針による手編み
Embroidery
Hand and machine embroidery, from flat stitches to raised, textured motifs.
Embroidery
The general term for all embroidery work.
- Also called
- 刺绣
- 刺繍（ししゅう）／刺繍加工
Hand embroidery
Embroidery worked entirely by hand.
- Also called
- 手工刺绣／手绣
- 手刺繍
Computerized embroidery / Machine embroidery
Stitched on computerized embroidery machines.
- Also called
- 电脑刺绣／机绣
- コンピューター刺繍／機械刺繍
Chain-stitch embroidery
Stitches form a continuous chain.
- Also called
- 链式刺绣／链条绣
- チェーンステッチ刺繍
Chenille embroidery / Loop-pile embroidery
Raised embroidery with a looped or plush pile. The exact stitch is confirmed for each design.
- Also called
- 毛巾绣／毛圈绣
- サガラ刺繍／シェニール刺繍
Cord embroidery / Couching
Cord or heavy yarn is laid along the design and stitched down.
- Also called
- 盘绳绣／绳绣
- コード刺繍／コーチング刺繍
Three-dimensional embellishment
Beads, sequins, appliqué and felted motifs added to the knit.
Bead embroidery / Beading
Beads form a decorative pattern.
- Also called
- 珠绣／钉珠
- ビーズ刺繍
Sequin embroidery
Sequins are stitched onto the knit.
- Also called
- 亮片绣／钉亮片
- スパンコール刺繍
Appliqué / Appliqué embroidery
Fabric or knitted pieces are applied and fixed with stitching.
- Also called
- 贴布绣／贴花
- アップリケ／アップリケ刺繍
Needle felting / Needle-punched embellishment
Special needles tangle fibres together to create motifs, local texture or decoration.
- Also called
- 针刺毡化／羊毛针毡装饰
- ニードルフェルト／ニードルパンチ加工
How to specify a finish in your brief
We confirm the effect, price and schedule on the sample before bulk production.
- 01A reference photo or sample of the effect you want, with the name of the technique if you know it.
- 02The yarn composition. Milling, for example, depends on wool fibres felting.
- 03Placement and size for embroidery, beading, sequins or appliqué, with the artwork if you have it.
- 04The target hand feel and wash look, and the quantity per colour per style (minimum order).
Finishing and embellishment questions
Which finishing and embellishment techniques can SANTEXWELL provide?
22 techniques in six groups: surface finishing (brushing, shearing, sueding), milling and heavy milling, washes and effects (enzyme, stone and enzyme stone washing, distressing, enzymatic discharge printing), handwork (hand crochet, hand knitting), embroidery (hand, computerized, chain-stitch, chenille and cord) and embellishment (beading, sequins, appliqué, needle felting).
What is the difference between brushing and sueding?
Brushing lifts the surface fibres into a soft, fluffy pile. Sueding, also called peaching, lightly abrades the surface to raise a fine, short nap. Shearing trims a raised pile to an even length.
Can any knitwear style be milled?
Milling works by felting wool fibres, which shrinks the knit, makes it denser and changes its hand feel; heavy milling gives a tighter, thicker felted texture. Whether a style suits it depends on the yarn composition, so share the composition with your brief and confirm the result on a sample.
Can you embroider knitwear by hand and by machine?
Yes. We offer hand embroidery and computerized embroidery, as well as chain-stitch, chenille or loop-pile and cord embroidery, beading, sequins and appliqué. For chenille or loop-pile embroidery, the exact stitch is confirmed for each design. Send the placement, size and artwork with your inquiry.